Marstrand, Sweden: Sea Views, Rich History, and a Legendary Thief

Some places just have a certain feel to them, and Marstrand was like that for me. It’s a small island town on the west coast of Sweden, just a bit north of Gothenburg, and honestly one of the most beautiful places I’ve been to.

You’ve got sea views in every direction, cute and colorful wooden houses, beautiful hiking paths (beginner-friendly!), and the peace of not having a single car around (yep, cars aren’t allowed on the island). And then there’s the old fortress sitting at the top, looking out over the town like it’s still guarding it.

There’s just something about the atmosphere that makes Marstrand feel really special. It’s quiet but full of stories. It’s simple, but it really stays with you.

The first thing you see when you arrive on the island is Carlstens fästning. It sits right at the top of the hill and looks out over the whole town. 

The fortress was built on the orders of King Carl X Gustav after the Treaty of Roskilde in 1658, when Bohuslän – the region Marstrand is part of – was taken from Denmark-Norway and became Swedish territory. Since Marstrand had an important ice-free harbor (meaning it doesn’t freeze and boats can dock even in winter) and a strategic spot on the west coast, the king wanted to secure it properly.

Much of the heavy work on the fortress was done by prisoners sentenced to hard labor – some even carried out their sentence in chains. Over time, Carlsten wasn’t just a military base, but also a prison where many inmates served long sentences. One of them, Lasse-Maja, ended up becoming one of the most famous criminals in Swedish history.

Lasse‑Maja is probably the most well-known prisoner to ever sit in Carlstens fästning . And he is definitely one of Sweden’s most famous criminals. 

His real name was Lars Larsson Molin. he became known across Sweden not just for being a skilled thief, but for doing it all while dressed as a woman. That’s where the nickname “Lasse‑Maja” comes from – Lasse from Lars, and Maja from the name of his mistress, Maja Andersdotter, who was also the first woman he borrowed clothes from. The disguise helped him move around unnoticed and made it easier to steal from wealthy people without raising suspicion.

But it wasn’t just for show. In his memoirs, Lasse‑Maja wrote that he felt comfortable living both as a man and a woman. He sometimes worked as a maid or housekeeper in disguise, and even flirted with men to keep up the act. Women’s clothes helped him blend in, but when it came to escaping, he preferred men’s clothes. They were easier to run in, he said.

He was finally caught in 1813 after stealing church silver – a serious crime back then – and was sentenced to life at Carlstens fästning. 

That could have been the end of the story, but somehow, it wasn’t. Instead of becoming forgotten behind the fortress walls, Lasse‑Maja became something of a celebrity. Upper‑class visitors who came to Marstrand on summer holidays paid to hear his stories, and he made money entertaining them. He was also known as a great cook, which made him popular among both guards and fellow prisoners.

While imprisoned, he wrote his memoirs, which became hugely popular, and after several attempts, he was finally pardoned and released in 1839. Today, you can still visit his preserved cell at Carlstens fästning – his name is written above the door.

Even after prison, Lasse-Maja continued traveling around Sweden, telling stories and living off his fame. One of the things he’s said to have believed most strongly was that life could be hard – but that it was still important to have fun.

One of the best things about Marstrand is that you don’t really need a plan. The island is small and super walkable, so just being there is kind of the point. It’s the kind of place where you can take your time, follow any street that looks nice, and see where it leads. Everything feels relaxed and a bit slower – like a proper summer day should.

You’ll probably end up at Carlstens fästning pretty quickly whichever street you follow. It’s right at the top and hard to miss. You can go inside and explore the fortress, either on your own or on a guided tour where you’ll hear more about its history and some of the prisoners who were kept there. Sometimes they even host themed events, like medieval dinners or murder mystery nights! And if you really want to stay a little longer, you can book a night at Soldathotellet. It’s the hotel inside the fortress itself where the soldiers used to sleep. 

Besides the fortress, it’s also nice to just walk around. The streets are lined with cute, colorful wooden houses. There are cafés and small restaurants where you can sit and people-watch. The whole place just has this relaxed, summery feeling to it.

The harbor’s really nice too – lots of little boats and a good place to sit for a bit. There’s also a small church in the middle of town that’s worth stepping into if you pass by. 

If you feel like walking more, the loop around the island is only about 5 km and really beautiful. It’s not a hard walk at all, and you get amazing sea views pretty much the whole way.

There are also a few little detours you can take if you want to explore more – places like S:t Eriks grotta (St Erik’s Cave), Önskebrunnen (The Wishing Well) and others. You can bring a picnic or a fika and stop at one of the viewpoints along the way – like Skallens fyr or Tåudden.

And if you’re visiting in summer, don’t forget your swimsuit. There are a few nice little beaches around the island where people swim and sunbathe when the weather’s good. It’s not exactly tropical, but on a warm day, it’s perfect.

If I’ve managed to convince you Marstrand is worth visiting, here’s how to get there.*

I was staying in Gothenburg for a few days and decided to spend one of them in Marstrand – and I’m so glad I did. It’s about an hour away from Gothenburg: around 30 minutes by train to Kungälv, and then another 30 minutes by bus to Marstrand. 

But the bus doesn’t take you all the way to the island (no vehicles allowed, remember?). It drops you off at what I’d call the “mainland part” of Marstrand – even though it’s technically also on an island called Koön. The town of Marstrand is kind of divided in two: the first part, on Koön, is connected to the mainland by road and a few bridges across the archipelago, and the second part – Marstrandsön itself, the island with the fortress – isn’t connected by road at all. 

To get to Marstrandsön, you take a short ferry, which runs every 15 minutes and takes only a couple of minutes. You step on, look around, and by the time you’ve taken a couple of photos, you’re already there.

* Depending on where you’re coming from, the trip might look a bit different – but there’s a good chance your starting point will be Gothenburg. In that case, taking the train to Kungälv and then the bus to the Marstrand ferry terminal is the easiest option. Sometimes, there are seasonal event-based buses that go directly from Gothenburg to Marstrand ferry terminal, so it’s worth checking online when you’re planning your trip. 

Marstrand is definitely a summer place. From June to September, everything’s open – the cafés, restaurants, little shops, and the ferry runs regularly all day. That’s when the island feels most alive. Outside of those months, it’s a lot quieter, and many places close for the season.

However, if you’re around in December, the town comes alive again. There’s a cozy Christmas market, and the fortress usually hosts a traditional Swedish julbord (Christmas buffet), which could be a good reason to visit in winter too.

As for how much time you need – you can definitely see a lot of Marstrand in just a day. That’s what I did, and it never felt rushed. The island is small, everything is walkable, and you can get a good feel for the place just by walking around. But if you want to take it slow, stay for a night, visit the fortress and do the island hike – it’s worth it. Either way, it’s an easy trip that doesn’t need much planning.

Marstrand might be small, but it really has it all – beautiful nature, sea views, cute streets, and a fortress full of stories. It’s one of those places that Swedes return to again and again, and after visiting, I totally get why.